Although the passion and fervour of match day can occasionally spill over into hostility, and the casual spectator may need to keep their wits about them at times, the atmosphere at big games in Turkey’s capital is unlike anything anywhere else in Europe, with a memorable show of colour and noise being whipped up inside the stadia several hours before kick-off.
Dominating the domestic game in terms of support, media interest and success, the city’s “big three” have been involved in all 53 seasons of the national championship (which started half a century after they did) and the Super Lig title has left Istanbul only once in the past 27 years – although a match-fixing scandal this summer did see a non-Istanbul side, Trabzonspor, awarded the country’s Champions League group-stage place.
Formed in 1903, Besiktas are the oldest of the trio and have won the league 13 times, while Galatasaray (1905) were the first Turkish team to win a European trophy (the UEFA Cup in 2000) and have 17 titles – which is one less than Fenerbahce on the Asian side of town, who remain the country’s most universally popular club.
The city’s fourth club, Istanbul BB, were only formed in 1990 from an amalgamation of clubs but they did reach last season’s Turkish Cup Final, where they lost on penalties to Besiktas.
Big Derby clash
For intensity, there are few derbies to rival Istanbul’s clash between Galatasaray and Fenerbahce. Along with the long pre-match build-up of drums, flares and ritual chanting, there is usually more than just local pride at stake – 15 of the past 20 Turkish league titles have gone to one of the two clubs.
The first recorded trouble between the two sides came in 1934 when a derby game had to be abandoned after fighting between rival players. The most notorious incident occurred in the 1996 Turkish Cup Final, when victorious Gala manager Graeme Souness nearly provoked a riot by planting his club’s flag right in the middle of the Fener centre circle, adding considerable insult to injury.
The game’s grassroots
With Ottoman rulers frowning upon the foreign influence of the game, Istanbul’s football clubs all have their roots in areas of the city with large Christian or Jewish populations or foreign schools.
Geographically, Galatasaray and Fenerbahce are separated by a continental divide, with Fener’s ground on the Asian side of the city. Traditionally, Galatasaray had a more educated, middle-class fan base, with the club having historic ties to the Lycee school in the Beyoglu area of town.
The founder of the post-Ottoman Turkish republic, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, was a Fenerbahce fan and most cosmopolitan in his outlook, and by the 1930s there was a thriving Istanbul league and regional play-offs.




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